Vinho verde was the perfect wine for tonight.  From the Minho province in the Northeast corner of Portugal, ‘green’ wine is not green in hue, but in age.  The color is almost water white.  Light in body, ever so slightly sparkling on the tongue, zesty citrus flavors, and searing acidity all contribute to a delightful beverage with low enough alcohol that it is actually refreshingly cool.  I loathe hot summer evenings when overly alcoholic and warm white wines drag down my spirits as humidity bedraggles my hair.  The Broadbent 2009, ($6.99 at Costco) is an exceptional version and even more amazing for the price.  Serve as an aperitif or as the main event.  It is especially suited (like its cousin to the North, the Spanish albarino) to shellfish.

Tonight, I served ours with large mouth bass tacos.  In the spirit of eating fresh and local foods, the bass came from my dad’s fish camp, the pico de gallo from organic produce delivered to my doorstep this afternoon (5 roma tomatoes, 1 small delicately sweet onion, a big handful of cilantro, 2 jalapenos, the juice of one lemon + fleur de sel), and the black beans and corn tortillas…well we have to keep our grocery stores in business somehow, right?!

So with the baby down and the sun setting, Mr. McCoy and I did a little late night gardening and finished off what will certainly not be the last of this summer’s Vinho Verde.  Cheers!

Today I want to share a great little discovery that we came across on our anniversary last weekend.  I had ordered a grass fed rib eye steak and wanted something with enough tannins and hearty flavour to complement my dinner, steak frites and all.  The 2005 Chateau de Rochemorin did just that and more all for a restaurant price of under $50.  The first sip was a little tight, but after 15 minutes or so, a really delicious wine was coming together.  Bright cassis, cherry, tobacco, a hint of well worn leather (my husband’s favorite wine descriptor—he was amazed and entertained when learning it was an actual word wine geeks used), and even a touch of espresso.  Bright and lush fruit tempered with nice oak.  This wine should improve over the hour or so it takes you to drink it (yes, you could decant 30 minutes prior to service) and should be good for the next five to eight years.  The wine is 60% Cabernet and 40% Merlot.  Find yourself a bottle or a few soon.

Chateau de Rochemorin is situated in Pessac-Leognan and owned by Andre Lurton, who, according to the World Atlas of Wine is: ‘the prophet and prime mover, founder of the local growers’ organization, owner [of multiple Chateaux], and the driving force behind much of the recent renewal.’ Pessac-Leognan, just south and west of the town of Bordeaux, contains one of the top growth estates in Bordeaux, Chateau Haut-Brion.  Chateau de Rochemorin is situated just a stone’s throw from Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, which has been on my radar ever since my mom and I began to hoard Caudalie’s outstanding facial products on each trip to France.  I’ve always wanted to make a pilgrimage to their ‘vinotherapie’ spa and now have a new gem of a vineyard to visit while in the neighborhood.

Please look for a few more updates before Christmas.  For some reason I feel no hesitation about opening anything in my cellar this time of year.  Maybe not sleeping for more than two hours in a stretch does this?  Let’s hope my stocking is stuffed with something amazing!  Until then, if you’re in the neighborhood, stop by and we’ll raise a glass.

Do be careful:  it goes down easily!

3 c water

1 c sugar

12 cloves

4 cardamom pods, split open

2 cinnamon sticks

1 lemon peel

750 ml. red wine (I like either a Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend or Chianti)

½ cup brandy

Simmer 3 cups water with sugar, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon sticks, and lemon peel in stainless steel pot for ten to twenty minutes.  Add wine and heat to coffee temperature (do not boil) then add the brandy.  If you want to add a little more fruit flavor, throw a ½ cup of orange or apple juice into the water and spice mix.

In spite of the massive amount of suds served with barbeque, all of that greasy, meaty goodness can taste amazing with the right wine.  What qualities must said wine possess?  Well first of all, the wine cannot be too subtle.  When the nose is overwhelmed with thick, black smoke from charred fat, spice, and sauce, a wine with hints of floral aromas will certainly be overpowered.  Save your Domaine de la Romanee-Conti and other fine Burgundies for different meals.  Instead, look to the Aussies for a wine that promises pepper, spice, smoke, oak, toast, intoxicatingly jammy fruits, and a final note of refreshing herbaceousness.  Yes, one wine can offer all of this, frequently for far less than $20.  What is it?  Shiraz.

As many of you know, Shiraz is the same grape as the Syrah, the predominant varietal of the Northern Rhone Valley in the south of France.  Syrah is found all throughout the Southern Rhone, Languedoc and Roussillon.  In the 18th and 19^th centuries, Hermitage (N. Rhone appellation) was one of the most coveted and valuable wines on the market.  Not only have plantings exploded in France in the last few decades, they have also taken off in the rest of the world.  According to Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine, Shiraz is the fifth most planted red wine grape.

Shiraz has found its second home in Australia in the way that Sauvignon Blanc, originally of Bordeaux, has beautifully emigrated to New Zealand.  Because Shiraz was brought over early in the nineteenth century, there are many notable examples of old vines, lush in concentration.  You may be wondering whether the hype around old vines is merited.  Old vines tend to produce less fruit, but often the fruit they produce is more concentrated, hence a dilemma for the vineyard manager; planting new, higher yielding vines, or leaving the old and weathered ones.  One cult classic Aussie Shiraz is Penfold’s Grange, which I’ve only had the pleasure of drinking once.  Fortunately, many great bottles of Shiraz are available for a fraction of the price.

When seeking out that perfect bottle of Shiraz for your barbeque, knowing a little about the regions can help.  The bulk of wine grown in Australia falls into the category South East Australian wine.  This means it can come from any of a number of regions in the South East.  It can be of good quality, but does not narrow the flavour profile as much as other regions will.  Wines in the sub ten dollar category, like Yellow Tail, Lindemans Bin 65 and others have helped expand the world’s recognition in Australian wines, but also limited consumer’s expectations, tying their interest mostly to price.  For just dollars more, much better wines are available.

McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley are two names to keep in mind while perusing the Shiraz section.  Both are historic regions with many old vines and great winemaking traditions.  McLaren Vale tends to produce wines with great warmth and flavours of black pepper, spice, black plums, and licorice.  Barossa Valley wines are even more powerful, with many of the same spice and fruits plus a mocha characteristic.  They have a deep inky hue with almost purple colour when young.  Depending on vineyard location, some wines even hint at the eucalyptus groves nearby with a refreshing herbal note.  Producers to look for include Kangarilla Road (McLaren Vale), Torbreck (Barossa), Elderton (Barossa), d’Arenberg, and Mitolo, among many greats.

Regardless of your type of barbecue, the next time you find yourself face to face with a plate of brisket, pulled pork, or ribs, pour some Australian Shiraz alongside.  You won’t be disappointed.

I cannot even remember which of their wines was graced by this recommendation, but I do remember, as a college student, being highly amused by the candor of their suggestion.  More wines should bill themselves this way.

Most Americans think that beer is the perfect accompaniment to pizza.  While there is no denying the satisfaction of a good clean lager and a hot slice of pizza, I would urge you to think beyond beer to wine.  A light, acidic red wine can cut through the rich topping of cheese and complement the tangy, clean tomato layer.  That said, many wines are not well suited to pizza—too many tannins, too much floral aroma, I could go on and on.  But when you find the right wine with pizza, well you have magic.

Barbera is indigenous to the region of Piedmont, which is adjacent to both France and Switzerland. Piedmont translates to the foot of the mountains: it is surrounded on three sides by the Alps.  Unsurprisingly, it consists largely of foothills and mountains.  For centuries Piedmont was a strategic asset in the political maneuvers of European powers.  The French annexed it in 1801, the Congress of Vienna then used it to buffer central Europe from the French, and finally Piedmont itself attempted to unify Italy.  A vast land rich in agriculture, Piedmont produces fantastic wines.  Barolo and Barbaresco, both made from Nebbiolo, are probably the most famous of these wines.

Barbera could be seen as a country cousin if it were simply a less refined version of the Nebbiolo grape. It does not require or command the fanfare of the previous two.  A long growing season in a cool region creates high acidity, which is why it is so well suited for a pizza pairing.  The tomato sauce does not render the wine flaccid; the tangy tomato shines when matched with the warm acidity of a fruity, young Barbera.  Depending on the specific appellation of Barbera, this an indication of altitude and length of growing season, the flavors of Barbera can range from the lighter side—red cherries, blueberries, and tart red raspberries—to a riper expression of blackberry.

The third most widely planted grape in Italy, Barbera is also grown in California, Australia, and Argentina.  The Barbera appellation in Piedmont has several subregions, including Barbera d’Asti, which received DOCG status in 2008.  Barbera d’Alba also produces fine wines, usually a bit darker with deeper fruit flavours.

The next time you’re ordering pizza, grab a bottle of Barbera to go along with it.  The best thing is that it could well cost less than the pizza.

Riesling is a noble grape, perhaps more so than any other. It is grown all over the world and flourishes in marginal latitudes that don’t tend to allow other grapes to ripen, from northern Germany to New Zealand. Riesling fares best in a cool climate with a lengthy growing season. Long days filled with sunshine, sometimes compounded through reflected rays from nearby bodies of water, allow great sugar development; cool evenings preserve the signature acidity of the varietal. The flavor profile of the finished wine ranges from austere: tart Granny Smith apples punctuated with citrus zest and slatey minerality, to positively unctuous: petrol aromas with ripe stone fruits (peaches and nectarines) and tropical pineapple. While some prefer Rieslings containing a healthy amount of residual sugar, or sugar left after the fermentation dies off or is stopped, others like Riesling nearly bone dry. The conventional wisdom for leaving more sugar in finished Riesling than many other white wines is that the sugar balances the often high levels of searing acid.

While Germany is the country most immediately associated with Riesling, many other regions grow their own delicious and distinct versions. One of the four noble, or more highly classified, grapes of Alsace, Riesling here is almost always bone dry. It shows off the aromatic qualities of the grape and on the palate dances with citrus, apples, peaches, a hint of melon, baked bread, and sometimes petrol as it develops with age. The Eden Valley in Australia, to the East of the famed Barossa Valley, turns out a racy and floral version of the grape, while the Clare Valley, north of Barossa, has a limier, more robust quality. Expect these to be very dry wines. They are excellent, and while not easy to find in Kansas City, promise great values that are worth the search. For Riesling grown closer to home, look westward to Washington State. Chateau Ste. Michelle is the world’s largest bottler of the varietal, and their Eroica label, a project with German producer Dr. Ernest Loosen, shows their interest in producing a classically styled wine.

No matter which region your Riesling comes from, it is a delightful companion to many styles of food. Fancy a spicy Thai curry? There’s nothing better to quell your inflamed taste buds. Riesling’s naturally high acidity can cut through the richness of many cuisines and the crisp, refreshing citrus and tropical fruits are perfect for everything from shellfish in a rich sauce to grilled pork tenderloin basted in red pepper jelly and pineapple juice. It is equally enjoyable as an aperitif. Arrange a cheese plate with a young Gorgonzola, mild English cheddar, and aged Parmesan, or better yet, a batch of Gougere, the bitesized French cheese puff. There is no better way to pass an autumn afternoon!

Gougere:
1 cup milk
¼ cup butter, cut in pieces
½ teaspoon salt
Dash of pepper
1 Cup all-purpose flour
4 eggs
1 cup shredded Gruyere or Emmentaler

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In a 2-quart saucepan, heat the milk, butter, salt, and pepper, bringing to full boil. Add the flour all at once, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula or spoon. Dough will form a ball. Remove from heat. Beat eggs into dough, one at a time, until mixture is smooth and eggs are incorporated. Stir in half of the cheese.

Drop by spoonfuls onto ungreased cookie sheet. Top with remaining cheese. Bake 20-25 minutes or until tops are lightly brown and crisp.